Why Do Celebrities All Go to the Same Restaurants?

It sometimes seems there are just two types of restaurants in New York City: the ones where celebrities eat, and everywhere else. Coverage of big-name restaurant outings has been particularly profuse this year; every New York spot Taylor Swift has patronized, for example, has been thoroughly documented and mapped online.

All that V.I.P. voyeurism has turned these sightings into a priceless form of currency for restaurateurs. Even a handful of TikTok videos of Post Malone eating spaghetti at a back table can guarantee solid bookings for months. Several high-profile openings this year, including the Corner Store, Bungalow and Crane Club, have drawn a parade of A-listers and in turn become some of the toughest reservations in town.

What’s the secret to attracting the rich and famous? We visited several star-frequented establishments in New York, and learned that many share similar strategies. Here are nine ways that restaurants draw big names to their doors.

1. Hire a host with the most.

She has a knack for logistics and an irresistible magnetism. He knows exactly who’s coming in tonight and what they love (or hate) to eat. These hosts will hand-deliver dishes and keep the Champagne flowing — all while casually mentioning that Rihanna swung by yesterday.

Emilio Vitolo, the second-generation owner of the Italian restaurant Emilio’s Ballato in NoLIta, is the archetype. He’s omnipresent at the restaurant and its next-door speakeasy, Da Milio, floating from table to table with a cigarette in hand, schmoozing in his thick New York accent with guests like George Clooney, all three Jonas Brothers and, yes, Ms. Swift.