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But Would Kamala Wear It?

In her sophomore collection Chloé’s Chemena Kamali offers a high summer vibe, but not too many suits. Schiaparelli and Rabanne also let the sun shine in.

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After the hoo-ha generated last month by Kamala Harris’s appearance at the Democratic National Convention in not one but two Chloé suits — the tan number she wore for her surprise speech on Day 1, and the navy look she wore for her official acceptance speech — one could be forgiven for assuming that Chloé’s newish designer, Chemena Kamali, might lean into the whole tailoring-with-a-softer-edge thing.

After all, she had only shown one collection at that point, and if the rare woman to be at the top of an American presidential ticket wanted to be that kind of Chloé girl, it’s a pretty big vote of confidence in the direction.

But if you thought that, you would be wrong. Instead, in her sophomore show, Ms. Kamali doubled down on the 1970s love child of a rock star aesthetic and It Girl ethos that emerged in her first collection and has already spawned a host of fast-fashion homages. As well as attracting a bevy of boldface fans, many of whom (Selma Blair, Juliette Lewis, Sienna Miller) sat front row this time around. They were quasi-modeling the lacy little blouses, high-waist jeans and chunky wood wedges that were the hits of Collection 1, which are just arriving in stores now and, according the brand’s chief executive Laurent Malecaze, glad-handing at the show, are already selling out.

In fact, if anything, Ms. Kamali lightened up even further.

Chloé, spring 2025
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Literally, with lace on transparency on pastel florals. Doily-trimmed wisps of tulle became blouses and playsuits; high-low empire-waist chiffons ballooned out in the air; and brushed cotton vintage-y jackets had the sort of gathered shoulders and yolks that suggested pausing during a picnic to jump up on a rock and start reciting a Shakespearean soliloquy before breaking into the theme song from “Hair.” That there also were bloomers, short and calf-length, shown with almost everything, added to the imagery, but they were less convincing as an actual dress proposition. Amelia Bloomer may have gotten away with them as a 19th-century rebel against gendered social conventions, but at this stage, no one else should.

The result was the most summery collection of the entire fashion month so far.

At a time when climate change, as well as the sheer proliferation of collections, has made the whole idea of seasonal dressing (and seasons themselves) practically meaningless — and every time you check the news the stories seem to be about dark days ahead — Ms. Kamali offered eternal sunshine of the sartorial kind.