Fashion

Tilting Away From the Tux

At last night’s Oscars the men who skipped the penguin suits stole the spotlight. Stylists and brands should pay attention.

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If you wish to fully grasp Timothée Chalamet’s Oscars suit, you may do better to consult a food reporter rather than a fashion critic.

They might be able to tell you the outfit was a shade of French butter. Or was it egg yolk? Perhaps just lemon?

Whatever the tint of his monochrome look, Mr. Chalamet’s effervescent not-a-tux was the consensus gotta-talk-about-it outfit of the evening. There was certainly much to scrutinize. The jacket was cropped like a maitre d’s uniform. A tie? Overlooked. In its place, a dot of a pearl collar. The pants, which weren’t even suit pants but were, in fact, shaped like five pocket jeans, puddled indifferently around his glossed black boots.

Timothée Chalamet was nominated for his role in “A Complete Unknown.” Credit…Nina Westervelt for The New York Times

It’s unclear if this outfit was nodding to an outfit Bob Dylan once wore, as some of Mr. Chalamet’s carpet looks have during this award’s season sprint, but his Oscars look at least had the spirit of Dylan. (This critic’s theory: It was “Blonde on Blonde” in outfit form.) This was a suit that smirked at ceremony but felt glamorous and elevated despite it’s provocation.

The unusual red carpet outfit also provided a crucial preview for Givenchy, who made it specially for Mr. Chalamet.

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