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Thanksgiving Lasagna Is the Best Lasagna

The Italian American tradition has been adapted by other immigrant families into delicious takes on the classic.

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Justin Pichetrungsi is having lasagna this Thanksgiving, carrying on a tradition his parents started. But he’ll be making his from scratch. Thanksgiving was a rare day off for his parents, who ran a Thai restaurant, and they weren’t really turkey people. For the holiday, they often bought lasagna from the nearby Costco and served it with the store’s bagged Caesar salad tossed withits packaged Chinese chicken salad dressing. The spread was rounded out with a Cantonese seafood feast from a beloved local restaurant.

The chef Justin Pichetrungsi makes a lasagna sauce inspired by nam prik ong, a meaty Thai dip of pork, tomatoes and chiles.Credit…Michelle Groskopf for The New York Times

“Our table always had something Anglo-leaning and something Asian-leaning,” said Mr. Pichetrungsi, who is now the chef of the family’s restaurant, Anajak Thai, in Sherman Oaks, Calif.

In place of lasagna straight from the freezer aisle of the bulk food store, Mr. Pichetrungsi now makes one inspired by the flavors of nam prik ong, a meaty Thai dip made of pork, tomatoes and chiles. He uses both Thai basil and Italian basil for freshness and flavor, and Thai pantry staples like shrimp paste and soy sauce — but also a hefty amount of cheese, which he calls the “glue” of the dish.


Recipe: Nam Prik Ong Lasagna